Which audio monitors are you guys using with Cubase??

Main speakers: Klein & Hummel O300 (great speakers)
Alternative pair: Yamaha msp-5

cheers
S.

very great selection, unspoken! (I have also a pair of O 300, love it! :slight_smile:

See signature:

All this jabber about speakers and NS10 is BS. The control room’s acoustics, and the engineer’s familiarity with the speakers, is the only thing that matters.

Oh yeah… Bm5a with a Dynaudio sub

That’s precisely why NS10m’s became an industry norm – familiarity

Control room acoustics vary from studio to studio

Yes… in the Good Old Days… you have a point. Today… it’s kind of pointless. Engineers don’t travel much anymore. Yamaha killed the NS10 more than 10 years ago. There are lots of other great speakers being made today. Even Yamaha, and the original designer of the NS10, have created a “new version” that is, according to the creators, an improvement of the old version.

Did lots of people use them? Yep.
Can you make great music mixing on NS10s? Of course.
Does that mean anything? Not really.

Now back to the OP.

Genelec 8040 nowadays. Used Alesis M 1 acive earlier and now know why they are bad.

braunie

That’s good to know, the Alesis M1 are the best nearfields I’ve heard so there’s much more to experience :wink:

So it wasn’t BS then. Cool :slight_smile:

Yep… you know… just trying to keep it focused.

BTW - I’d like to more about the soffitt mounting in terms of construction. How do you prevent the whole front wall from becoming a resonator? I know its a great method but I’ve never understood how or why.

Yup. Sound nice them M1’s…but…everything below 200 Hz is too sloppy - guess due to fact that they are trying to get too much from reflex port. Huge phase problems and they are too bass heavy. In upper midrange they are too forgiving - distorted guitars can sound really nice even they sound harsh in more revailing systems. highs are nice thou’. Just my 2 cents :slight_smile: But sloppy is the word. and due to low wattage they distort fairly easily.

braunie

Mount the speakers on a heavy weight ( 4 times the weight of the speaker ). Then decouple the speaker+weight mass on an elastomer ( such as Sylomer ) and sit that on the speaker mounts. The mounts should be extremely solid.

you are basically creating a ‘mass-spring-mass’ system ( same as room within a room on a floating floor ) where.

So mass1-spring-mass2 is

mass1 = speaker + weight

spring = elastomer material

mass2 = earth


This ‘mass-spring-mass’ system has a resonant frequency which should be calculated to be ( preferably an octave ) below the lowest reproducible frequency of the your speakers. That’s becuase you get maximum transmission at the resonant frequency and progressively more isolation as you increase the frequency above resonant.

hth :slight_smile:

So the speakers are isolated from the wall structure… in theory. It seems like you should still get some resonance off the front wall. It also seems that, by not tight fitting the speakers to the wall, you would be creating a port which would alter your frequency response curve.

Not to mention… What if you decide to move them a few degrees or inches? :blush: SOL
I guess I just see it done WRONG more often than not. For example…

This guy is just building boxes or shelves into his wall and calling it soffit mounting. Seems like a bad idea…

Depends upon the resonant frequency of the wall

It also seems that, by not tight fitting the speakers to the wall, you would be creating a port which would alter your frequency response curve.

Not in practise. you can get a small resonance in the gap between the speaker and the soffit enclosure but you fill it with rockwool to dampen that. You will get a frequency response change by soffit mounting anyway and it’s a desirable one. acoustic energy ( especially bass ) that normally projected backwards is projected forwards. the increase bass response means you can EQ this out and ergo your speakers have a lot more headroom.

Not to mention… What if you decide to move them a few degrees or inches? > :blush: > SOL

Well that’s tough tittie. :slight_smile: Most people design the speakers in an equilateral triangle to the listener


I guess I just see it done WRONG more often than not. For example…

This guy is just building boxes or shelves into his wall and calling it soffit mounting. Seems like a bad idea…

It’s not a ‘bad’ idea, but it’s not as ideal as it could be. But it’s a lot better than no soffits. His wall looks pretty solid and hopefully he’ll cover it with enough layers of plasterboard ( sheetrock )


I made my soffits with enough room to place decoupled concrete filled wooden boxes in the bottom off …

You could build the holes bigger than needed and move the speakers around, as long as you back fill and plasterboard at each move!!! or just get it right first time :slight_smile:

The front wall should be designed not to resonate by making it as solid as possible.

As PW says, the benefit of soffit mounting far outweighs any disadvantages

Or build solid soffit walls that can move for adjustment ( using hinges as you’d see on a nuclear blast bunker door )

The front wall should be designed not to resonate by making it as solid as possible.

Yup but sound still travels through solid objects really well … put your ear on the tracks and you can hear the train coming from many miles away

Double yup but massive things take a lot more to get them moving in the first place

Except at their resonant frequency …

Genelec 1019A http://www.genelec.fi/tuotteet/vanhat-mallit/1019a/
Avantone Mixcube http://www.avantoneaudio.com/active%20mixcubes.htm

Unless damped effectively unlike this more modern example!

Synchronous Lateral Excitation